THE LAND OF GODS......A travelogue

THE LAND OF GODS

HARSIL

Though I had been in this region twice before but Harsil always kept eluded from my visit. From the super humid 35 degree Mumbai to the 10 degree chilly village we reached in 12 hours. The transition was too fast and too good.A small village with hardly any population with few homestays amongst the apple orchards and on the banks of river Bhagirathi, the setting was perfect as our GMVN rest house. A cup of tea in front of the river with mountains surrounded from all sides,it was a good start indeed. Ram Teri....... was shot in Harsil and I was curious to know the famous waterfall. Time constraints, we headed to Gartang Gali near Lanka bridge. This is the place which opened recently for the civilians and was the ancient route to Tibet. A couple of hours of hike in this region was a welcome warm-up for the hard days ahead. The journey from Harsil to Gangotri is just mind-blowing. Good roads complement the scenery and yes I can guarantee you that the rawness of the beauty overshadows the Alps Andes etc etc. Welcome to the land of Gods......The Devbhoomi

GANGOTRI

This was my third time to this temple town situated at an altitude of 10050 ft alongside the river Bhagirathi. As we entered this dham, people, mostly elderly,though not in large numbers,from all over the country could be seen thronging the market,temple complex and the river banks. 15kgs of backload was balanced as we walked down to the place called Suryakund. King Bhagirath prayed on a huge rock and as a boon got the river from heaven. It was released from the hair locks of  Shiva at this place. The magnificent rock formations and release of the river in the form of a waterfall is seen only in this part of the world. It was a chilly evening as we packed and prepared for the trek tomorrow.

CHIRBASA

There were 17 of us. Mumbai, Bangalore, Siliguri and Arizona. All were in their late 20s and were solo trekkers. 9 km and altitude gain of 1500 ft on a level headed trail was on the cards. As we entered the Gangotri National Park after showing our permits,the  valley opened for the better. Autumn colours were in full form with Sudarshan peak shining bright with the holy river never leaving our right side. A few hydration breaks and one lunch break took us to the beautiful campsite of Chirbasa. As we descended a few feet crossing the boulders took us to the enchanted forest section with diverse trees with fall colours blocking the evening sunrays and few shrubs decorating the base. As the tents were pitched,we did a cool-down stretch to prevent cramps. 5pm high tea with snacks were the highlight as we all went 50 metres away from the campsite to the river bank. A free flowing river with sand on its bank resembling any beach with few shiny stones in front of mighty Bhagirathi sisters (peaks) at the background and changing the colours of the sky. All the elements were at their peak as I drained my battery clicking pics from various angles. A hot cup of tea and pakoras were tasty but the ambience was next to none. We all felt blessed....... but more blessings were in the stores.

BHOJBASA

6-7-8 were the norm (6- wakeup tea,7-breakfast and 8-to start the trek). Today was an easy day. 5 kms and altitude gain of 800 ft. As we progressed entering deep in the valley going nearer to the Bhagirathi sisters, few peaks were seen on the right Meru and Mandar (read Manda too). I was happy to know that there is a peak after my name. Both peaks are important in Hindu mythology. In a couple of hours we reached a place from where we could see our campsite. A couple of ashrams, a govt test house and weather forecast system centre based in an igloo and a small playground having a volleyball net and our tents pitched on either side. After settling down we all started playing cricket with trek pole acting as bat and stumps. Kohlis, Sharmas and Bumrahs were at its best but again the ambience made all the difference. It started snowing. The snowflakes celebrated our heroics in the field at 12 k feet making all of us snow white in no time. High tea was obviously on the riverside and the setting was more appealing as the sisters were more closer to their brothers. Since we were fresh,the post dinner time was spent in stargazing and photographing the sisters. Milky way was at its best as the subzero temperature forced us to retire inside our tents. Tomorrow was going to be the..... Summit day!!!!

TAPOVAN

Summits are always special. There's always some action,some spice,some drama and  are always thrilling. And this one was no different. We had to cross the river in a trolley,4 in one, to be pulled by humans. A couple of hours and our team had crossed the river. A four kms of gradual ascend took us to the right of Gaumukh. We turned right and started a difficult climb to the meadows of Tapovan. 1000 ft in 5-6kms of near vertical climb on an uncharted path consisting of boulder moraines and scree. It made our task more difficult as it started snowing. The intensity increased with every given minute. A couple of hydration breaks and wet and chilly we all were keeping each other in good spirits.....one by one after almost 2 and half hours reached our summit. Our ascent eased as we started strolling through the holy meadows of Tapovan but the snow fall refused to stop. It was almost ankle deep snow which we monouvered as we crossed the near frozen river to reach our campsite. The yellow tents had changed its colours to white. The holy peak of Shivling was nowhere to be seen as were the sisters. A hot soup was the perfect antidote to the scary ambience outside. Most of us slept in the cost interiors of the hut belonging to Mouni Baba who has stayed at Tapovan for ages. Little unwell Baba was happy as we gave him the medicines and we were more than happy as we all got the warmth of his place. Tired souls went to sleep at 7.30pm and got up at 5.30am. The longest sleep I have ever had till now......  The sky was dusky but we could finally get the darshan of the holy peak Shivling on the left and the Bhagirathi sisters very near popping up on the right. The plateau was whitewashed as the sun started to penetrate its rays without much success but at least gave some brightness in the sky and in our minds. After bowing down to this holy place( Tapovan as the name suggests is a place where many  Rishis....still....meditate) we started our descent. And mind you all.... In the mountains descents are always more difficult than ascents and that too when there is a snowfall. Be prepared!!

GAUMUKH

Goosebumps......it gave me as we approached the cow's mouth. 23 years ago I almost lost my life after falling down in the freezing waters of river Bhagirathi. Out of 5 at that spot, 2 people disappeared and  3 people were injured but survived.....I was one of them. We started our descent from tapovan with all of us focussed on each step to be kept on the snowy boulders. The good part was that the snow was fresh and soft thus had a minimum chance of slipping. The sun peeped out intermittently in between the clouds and the landscape was nothing short of enigma. It resembled heaven swarg or jannat to say the least. Mesmerized with the spectacle,we forgot our pain and the stress of our coming down. It took us just 40 minutes to reach the sacred place of Gaumukh. Manoeuvering a few boulders took us in front of the origin of the river Bhagirathi. A few clicked selfies,few videos,few meditated and myself went into complete nostalgia  of the day more than two decades ago. Drank water which was as good as nectar. Almost 40 to 50 feet wide with a mouth shaped opening, with Gangotri glacier on the top and Bhagirathi sisters on the further top, the landscape is just out of the world. 40 minutes we spent at Gaumukh and we all unwillingly left this surreal place. The return journey  to Bhojbasa was smooth as it started snowing. At the campsites were our tired bodies but satisfied souls. Our trek had almost ended. It was the penultimate day. Our debriefing was done and everyone complemented each other for the successful trek. Tomorrow by afternoon we would reach the base,get the connectivity and get lost....not in nature, unfortunately!!

...........KE DIL ABHI BHARA NAHI 

Somehow there is a mixed feeling about the last day of the trek. The joy of getting back to the civilization and grief about leaving the purity of mother nature. Though I trek at leisure soaking all that nature has to give us but this was the route which we had taken already. So at a good speed  covering our last leg little faster,afterall 14 kms we had to cover. So in a timelapse mode we started crossing the boulders, Bhagirathi sisters,the valleys with fall colours, the call of blue sheep,the pine trees,the peaks like Meru, Manda and various unnamed ones went across ourselves as we exited the core zone of the Gangotri National Park. Leaving this heaven with a heavy heart was the most difficult thing with my mind telling my soul....... Abhi Naa jao choda kar...... Plenty of trekkers of diverse ages and ethnicity crossed our paths that day. From 10 to 70 yrs old,all  were heading to the source of Bhagirathi. 'Goras'(westerners) were visiting Gaumukh and promoting hare Rama hare Krishna with all fervour. We all reached Gangotri temple in record time and for the first time in the last 5 days we saw crowds thronging the temple,the 'ghat' and the market with all the zest. The only common thing between Gaumukh and Gangotri apart from the river was the cold climate as crowds,trash and noise was quite distinct. Our trek got over and it had all the ingredients. A well established trail to start with,a core zone of the national park with fall colours,flora and fair fauna, plenty of peaks and a huge glacier which is unfortunately receding as I write,we crossed  ascended and descended boulders,faced heavy snowfall and played cricket too during the fall at 13k feet and finally traced the source of this mighty river Bhagirathi.A final hug with our mates at the basecamp as we left this dham with heavy hearts but ever satisfied souls. Holiest river of all...... Let alone seeing it ...we had witnessed its origin from our own eyes. I came here to Gangotri very first time in 1994 with my mother and almost after 3 decades witnessed the overcrowding of humans,houses, filth and vehicles . The only constant being the pure, free, cascading graciously flowing......river

@ Mandar Bapaye